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The Pantheon 2: A Pantheon of Grace

By Shawn Bausch


Three of us decided to celebrate mass this morning at the Pantheon.  Although constructed as a pagan gathering place (see earlier post, “The Pantheon”), it has been a Catholic church since 609 C.E.. 

We queue in the sun and semi-shade for thirty minutes.  Starting the warming process which will see the temperature in Rome reach 39 degrees today.  We are visited by a ‘guard’ of the Pantheon, a member of the ‘Rangers’, who filters out those in the line not attending mass.  

At 10:20am we are filed in.  The interior of the Pantheon and its famous ‘eye’ strike us after passing through the 12 metre iron doors.  Nowhere in Rome are there doors larger.

The significant but intimate features of the building make it a unique space for worship.  At 10:30am in July, the oculus passes light along the south-western wall and provides all of the necessary light for the worship service.  Sound through speakers resonates thoroughly, making the spoken word seem as if it is coming from both right next to you and the whole space all at once. 

We find places in the second row far left.  Before the service commences, the priest acting as altar assistant approaches and asks who will read the intercession in English.  I volunteer as quickly as possible.  Having spent the previous day in Assisi, on a pilgrimage of the important sites of St. Francis and Franciscan life, this invitation to participate was a welcome sign.

The church's organ fills the room with the sound of celebration and this morning’s singer begins mass with a resonant song.  When ready for us to join in, it is easy, following the pitch directed by the priest. 

The service is conducted primarily in Italian, with participation in Spanish and English.  The priest is vigorous in incensing the altar and the scent permeates easily.  Kryie, Sanctus, Angelis.  The one hundred in attendance make a joyful celebration. 

At the conclusion of mass, an assistant asks that we remain behind to be shown the inner chapel.  Together with the other readers this morning, we are led behind the altar into the working corridors of the Pantheon.  Past a figure of Boniface IV, who converted this building into a church in 609, we arrive at a small chapel for about 15 people.  The priest attempting to instruct us is proficient in Spanish and Italian.  For English, we make ends meet.  In front of us are typical rows for a choir and an altar with many ancient crosses.  In the centre hangs a painting, the virgin with a baby Jesus.  The virgin’s cloak is painted with a very faded colour – not red, not blue, but purple.  Reserved only for emperors in ancient times.  The eyes of baby Jesus are unusual –wherever you stand in relation to this work, they follow you.  We learn that this is the oldest icon in Western Christianity, created about 609 C.E..

After providing its history, the priest invites us to pray and photograph the icon up close.  Just prior to leaving us, he has one blessing with which to leave us:  whenever you return to this place, consider this your house. 

Thank you to the welcoming caretakers of the Pantheon.  Blessed be to God. 

Amen.






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