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Digging Deeper

I am told that whenever there is construction in Rome, the crew must be accompanied by an archaeologist. This is because anytime ground is broken here, there is a chance that they will uncover a priceless historical artefact. While I'm not sure how true this is, I've heard time and time again during several tours I've had this past week that we are higher above sea level than we would have been at some other point in time. This city has literally built on top of itself over the thousands of years since its founding. Today, we got to see just how true this is!

To be clear, we did not visit a construction site. Instead, we visited la Basilica di San Clemente just down the road from the Pope's Basilica of St John Lateran. Most intriguingly, we got a chance to see some of the Church as it would have been millennia ago, going all the way back to excavations of the first century home of Christian worship in the first century. And, for our fellows from St Michael's, we saw the final resting place of Leonard Boyle OP, who taught at our very own Pontifical Institute of Medieval Studies from 1961 to 1984.

How can I describe what we saw? Of course, there were many frescos that, despite the passage of time, have remained visible though faded on the walls, one of which depicted Mary as an empress. We saw the ancient altar of the 4th century basilica, and it was next to this that we say Leonard Boyle's grave. Going even further downwards, we saw the rooms of an old Mithraic temple that, at one point, was also an apartment block. Our guide, Cornelius, pointed out that at one point we even passed over what would have been an old Roman street. Over the ages, each level would be supplanted by what was new. Like we were digging for fossils, it was as if we could see firsthand the evolution of this very, very old city: from the days when Christianity was practically unheard of to now, when the Catholic influence is unmistakeable.

What's so incredible about this? It just goes to show that if you get bored in Rome, you could always start digging. Dig far enough, and you'll find yourself in an entirely different city. Just make sure that you have an archaeologist with you when you do. (And, as a disclaimer, that you have the proper permission from the relevant authorities.)

-Paul

P.S. Regrettably, there were signs in the lower levels that asked that I do not photograph certain things, so I did not take many pictures of the excavations. If you are that curious, my best recommendation would be to go see it all firsthand. You won't regret it, and of course, you can get a pretty good pizza afterwards as well.

Before I saw the sign for no photography.

A view of the courtyard

A beautiful altar found at the left-hand side of the church when you walk in.

RIP Leonard Boyle OP



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